Kannauj, the ‘Perfume Capital of India’ has been getting a lot of attention in the past year or so. Did you know that in 2024 Kannauj welcomed over 1.3 million tourists? This small little town in the state of Uttar Pradesh offers visitors a captivating introduction to India’s attar or perfume industry which dates to the 6th century in the reign of the famous king Harshvardhana.
No doubt we know of many references to attar making from earlier times, but for visitors Kannauj offers a hands-on experience of the original perfume making traditions, which was truly organic in nature.
Most visitors prefer to base themselves in Lucknow, a two-hour drive away, as Kannauj doesn’t really have very good stay options.
Anand Bhawan Palace, now beautifully restored in nearby Tirwaganj, is set to change all that. This boutique homestay is an excellent base for your explorations in and around Kannauj.
It’s been in the family of Raja Digvijay Narain Singh, scion of the erstwhile royal house of Tirwa since it was built in 1929. After lying in disuse for many years, after the abolition of the zamindari system, the beautiful palace has now been transformed with painstaking care Digvijay Narain Singh and his wife, Shruti Shandilya, to share it with visitors as a boutique homestay under the Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL), amã Stays & Trails umbrella. Spread across idyllic destinations, amã Stays & Trails is a portfolio of 311 bungalows, with 161 bungalows under development. UP Tourism has collaborated with it to introduce the state’s first luxury heritage homestay in Kannauj. “With UP Tourism’s support, Anand Bhawan Palace can now share the legacy of Kannauj with the world,” Singh pointed out. Shandilya added, “This initiative is not just about a homestay, but about preserving history and offering travellers a true cultural experience.”
It’s taken a decade to create this magic through this labour of love. Almost 80 percent of the palace, named after Digvijay Narain Singh’s grandmother, Rani Anand Udai Kumari, showcases its original Art Deco provenance, providing visitors a glimpse into its architectural beauty, decorative accents and vintage atmospherics. The Tirwa royals trace their ancestry back to 596 CE, consistently strengthening their roots in the space of governance, education, and cultural preservation—a tradition they still nourish.
Aligning with the history and heritage of Kannauj’s attar making traditions, the six airy guest rooms on offer are suitably inspired by the perfumes of Kannauj; so, you have the Yasmine Suite, Patchouli Suite, Oudh Suite, Neroli Suite, Gulaab Suite, and Bakhoor Suite— all intertwined with modern day comforts.
With its sweeping staircases, arched verandas, sunny courtyards, lush gardens where peacocks dance and heritage galleries filled with family memorabilia, Anand Bhawan Palace is an alluring place that bridges the passing of time in the most pleasing way. The inviting swimming pool, the vintage old John Roberts & Co. billiard table, along with exceptional culinary experience make a stay at Anand Bhawan Palace an unmissable experience for the traveller.
Meals are special here. The farm-to-table dining experiences offer rare insights into Awadhi as well as Nepalese culinary delights served amidst all this vintage splendour. Tuck into delicious Tirwa Dehati Murg, Shahi Gosht Kaliya, Shahjahani Matar, Kacche tel ka Bharta, Gorkha Aaloo Ratna teamed with fragrant pulaos and traditional Indian breads— served on brass thalis in the swanky dining hall—and that’s just the start of its many culinary allurements!
Step out for magical tours of Kannauj’s attar making traditions; go birdwatching at the nearby Lakh Bahosi Bird Sanctuary; seek solace at the 700-year-old old Annapurna Devi Temple established by Digvijay’s forebear, the scholarly Raja Jaswant Singh.
Looking for a laidback heritage experience in a palatial and tranquil setting? Anand Bhawan Palace is just the ticket!