The summers of India may summon up visuals of punishing heat and dust, but they also bring an amazing gift— an excuse to run away to some of the world’s most enchanting hill towns in the country.
From Darjeeling nestled in the Eastern Himalaya to Dharamsala in the Western Himalaya, from Mahabaleshwar in the West to Kodaikanal in the South, a plethora of thrilling narratives can be scripted of some fabulous experiences.
Darjeeling
Its aromatic, highly prized teas have flaunted the fame of this beautiful hill town the world over. Nestled in the Eastern Himalayas at a height of 7000 ft Darjeeling offers visitors a fabulous opportunity to explore the enchanting vistas of the Eastern Himalaya.
Discovered by chance by some British officers, this tiny hilltop enclave was first developed by the Brits as a sanatorium for ailing soldiers and officers and their families. Gradually Darjeeling firmed into a full-blown summer retreat for the Raj administration, through the hot summers of its capital city Calcutta.
Dotted across town are several Raj-era architectural gems and it is quite worth your while to sign up for a Heritage Walk to explore more deeply the impact of the British on this Himalayan retreat. A gem of a colonial-era find— Vivien Leigh, Scarlett O'Hara, the Southern belle in Gone with the Wind (1939) used to study at Loreto Convent School, Darjeeling. Her father was Ernest Richard Hartley, an English broker.
The countryside around Darjeeling is exquisite and perfect for trekking trips, picnics and the like. Magnolias and Rhododendrons startle you with their extravagant blossoms and scents, and the dense pine forests spirit you away to a world that is headily pollution-free.
Tea Tales and a Toy Train
The famous Planter’s Club, straddling the Mall, is a good place to explore Darj’s heritage and history. Now run as a 2-star hotel it was established as a club for the planters in 1868. Black-tie dinners and gala evenings here, provided leisure time away from the slog of running a tea estate. If you can get chatting with a very old retainer, there’ll be scores of stories that will trip off his tongue about the colourful planters who whiled away their time, half-slouching over the bar at three in the morning. Few are aware that in 1924 the club gave birth to the idea of the Mallory and Irvine climbing expedition to Mt Everest, which sadly ended in a tragedy.
Plan ahead to visit a tea estate for an immersive experience of the planter’s world. The tendrils of mists rising from the folds of the hills, it will surprise you to note, give that special flavour to Darjeeling teas. From garden to factory to tea tastings, it’s an incredible journey to explore some of the world’s most expensive teas. Planters used to go to oversee the work in the gardens on horseback because of the steep terrain. In the Dooars, in the gardens in the Siliguri plains, they did it by bicycle.
DHR Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a beautiful steam-run mountain train. Do the ride up from Kurseong to Ghoom, the highest railway station in India. Tea planters are of the firm belief that the track was laid by a drunken soul mate, as it follows a crazy path, weaving in and out of the mountains.
Adventure sports
Your memories of adventure holidays will take on a fresh lease in these beautiful territories of the Eastern Himalaya. For trekkers of all hues, amateur and professionals, the rich heritage of the flora and fauna and avifauna in these hilly trails is a bonus. Even those peek-a-boo-views of the snowcapped peaks of the Khangchendzonga range will always fill you with delight. Some of the finest trekking trails are to be found around the Singalila Ridge which is one of the most important trade routes from West Bengal to neighbouring Nepal. The Singalila range stretches south to the plains creating a natural boundary between Nepal and Darjeeling. The ridge commands views of Nepal on one side, and the Darjeeling Hills and the Indian state of Sikkim on the other. It marks the watershed of two mighty river systems— the Teesta and the Kosi. Rafting enthusiasts can enjoy some fantastic whitewater experiences on the turbulent rapids of the Teesta River.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Museum
Visiting the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Museum opens up a fantastic window to the hill town’s importance, along with neighbouring Kalimpong, as a base for international mountaineering expeditions. These twin hill towns still ring with the tales of the exploits of Darjeeling resident, Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary, who were the first climbers to reach the summit of Mt Everest, the world’s highest mountain, on 29 May 1953. Commanding a stunning view of the 8586m-high Khangchendzonga, the third-highest peak in the world, HMI has become an important centre of tourist attraction apart from providing theoretical and practical training in mountaineering and rock climbing.
Sunrise over Mt. Khangchendzonga
An unmissable treat is watching the drama of a sunrise over Mt. Khangchendzonga and its accompanying peaks from Tiger Top. And if you’re really lucky, Mt. Everest will probably show up in the frame. The 360-degree panoramic display offers stunning views of the Siliguri plains also.
Dharamshala/Mcleodganj
The picturesque setting of the hill-town of Dharamsala, in the shadow of the mighty Dhauladhars is home to His Holiness Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama and the and the Tibetan Government- in Exile. This is where Tibet’s spiritual leader made his base when granted refuge here in 1959 by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, when he fled with his people from the persecution of the Chinese regime. If luck is with you, you might even catch a glimpse of Hollywood actor Richard Gere, who is a friend and follower of His Holiness and is a regular visitor here.
Dharamsala’s all-pervasive air of serenity and spiritual healing is a big attraction for travellers from all over the world. Ensconced amidst the verdant tracts of the gorgeous Kangra Valley, the hill town spins out the days with tranquil ease.
Little Lhasa’s Allurements
When the Tibetans fled to exile in 1960, they brought their culture with them and this is one of the main attractions for visitors coming to Dharamsala. McLeodganj, the upper part of town, is awash with homes of the Tibetan settlers looking to stay in proximity to the Dalai Lama. The area is marked for its collection of shrines and schools, meditation centres, restaurants serving Tibetan fare, and crafts shops hawking lovely Tibetan souvenirs.
When His Holiness is town the hill town is abustle with visitors from both home and abroad, seeking an audience with him. The big crowd-puller here is the Tsuglagkhang Temple, the holiest place in town. It is located close to the Dalai Lama’s residence, the Namgyal Monastery, which has some beautiful paintings, a Kalachakra shrine and a massive Buddha.
The Mani Lhakhang Stupa houses a gilded statue of the Buddha in lotus mudra. Visitors can spend meditative moments spinning the massive wheels here. The Gyuto Monastery 9 km away from town is a premier tantric college. Its popular haunt for visitors looking to enjoy the serene environs around Dharamsala.
Reviving a Precious Cultural Legacy
A visit to the Norbulingka Institute is an unmissable experience into a culture which could well have been lost if the Dalai Lama had not made a concerted effort to direct their energies in protecting Tibet’s traditional arts and crafts. It was His Holiness’ leadership that empowered the Tibetan people to preserve and honour their rich cultural heritages. Watch artisans work in these serene environs which also have a souvenir shop.
The traditional performing arts of Tibet are enshrined in the activities of the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts and its annual TIPA festivities. A 10-day long opera is organized here in the month of April. The International Himalayan Festival at Dharamsala in December is dedicated to H.H. Dalai Lama. and commemorates the day when he was honoured with the Nobel Peace Prize in 1985.
Cricket Craze
Dharmsala’s first international cricket match— IPL, was launched in its unique cricket stadium crested at a height of 1,457 m with the snow-mantled Dhauladhar range as a backdrop. The Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium is considered as one of the most challenging and finest in the country.
Treks and Nature Watch Trails
There are others who follow the trekking trails, curving along the heavily wooded ridges of the Dhauladhars. The Triund Hill trek from lovely Bhagsu Nag is a big draw for adventure buffs as is the less travelled Kareri Lake trail.
Dharamsala is also the perfect base for excursions to Dal Lake (11km), Hot Springs of Tatwani (25km), Chamunda Devi Temple (15km) and Palampur (52 km) famous for the Andretta Artists’ Village, tea estates and paragliding around Bir-Billing.
Mahabaleshwar
Despite the clutter of Mumbai’s weekend visitors, a tad more careful about environment pollution with garbage and the like, Mahabaleshwar (1372 meters) has doggedly retained its aura of tranquility and unspoiled loveliness.
The British had an uncanny knack for finding these lovely unspoilt spots to serve as sanatoria for their community across India during their long rule. Mahabaleshwar in fact rose to serve as the summer capital of the Bombay Presidency during the British Raj.
Encouraged by the stream of British visitors to the hill town the Raja of Satara, a descendant of Shivaji, made a massive effort to develop the township to accommodate even greater numbers.
The enchantment of that beautiful drive through richly verdant vistas on lesser crowded weekdays make it an old favourite for those seeking the nostalgic pleasures of eras long gone.
Links with the outreach of the Empire
Not many visitors are aware that shortly after Mahabaleshwar, located in the lush environs of the Western Ghats in Maharashtra, became a sanatorium in the Raj era, a jail came up, to house Chinese and Malay convicts.
The British, you may recall, had interests in the outer reaches of the Empire, which included Singapore, Malay (Malaysia), China, Japan and other countries in Southeast Asia. A unique aspect of this jail was that it was a kind of open-air reformatory. The convicts built the roads, and ground the corn in the day and were permitted to go down to the bazaar for supplies in the evening. Eventually it was abolished, but some of them were allowed to stay on in the hill town.
The Mahabaleshwar Club, a hub of activity, was once an exclusively colonial preserve. Indians weren’t even permitted to come in spitting distance of it till post- World War I. Today the Christmas Gala is a big-ticket event, and you can even get a day membership for a fee as an out-of-towner for a game of golf at the club’s 18-hole golf course.
Panoramas of Paradise
Scattered around the hill town are many viewpoints serving up the most fantastic panoramas of the surrounding hills and the valley of the Gayatri and Savitri rivers below. Fun-loving visitors are known to compete with each other about the greatest number of viewpoints they can cover in a day! Many rivers take birth amongst these hill slopes including the Krishna, around the source of which you’ll find a few old temples.
Picnics and Strawberry Picking
You can take a picnic lunch and explore some of the many waterfalls and springs that dot the hill station. Many of the lovely spots have been named after the various eminent British men and women who visited the hill town during the Raj (Connaught Peak-after the Duke of Connaught, Elphinstone Point after the governor of Bombay).
A cluster of strawberry farms around the hill town now offer handpicking strawberries as an added tourist attraction. December to February is the best time to visit. The annual Strawberry Festival comes up in March/April. So, grab that box, be mindful of the house rules about choosing the best and ripest ones; don’t waste time on the ones not ready. And, just gorge on these yummy, juicy gems from nature.
Shopping
Local honey, particularly the state government’s Madhusagar brand keeps the local apiary in business. Gorge on the famous strawberries in late November. There’s great fudge and jam being sold in the bazaar, which you can stock up for family and friends back home.
Kodaikanal
Most hill stations in India are believed to have been developed by the British as summer retreats for their officers and their families, as also to serve as sanatoria.
Kodaikanal or 'Kodai', as it’s affectionately called, begs to differ. The Americans, it is said, had a hand in developing its beauteous spread in the Palani Hills, in the Dindigul district of Tamil Nadu, 120km from Madurai.
Renowned as a major academic hub, Kodai was the only hill station to be set up by the Americans in India. The Kodaikanal International School was established by the Yank missionaries, and is one of the most prestigious schools in the country.
As a matter of interest, you’ll also discover there’s a bit of Australia here too- Set your sights on the beautiful long- limbed Australian blue gum trees and the eucalyptus oil sold in the bazaar. If you are prone to colds and coughs, you should stock up on the oil.
Nature’s Child
The jungle trails around the hills are a trekkers paradise and the blue-glassed lake a big draw for holidaymakers.
Follow the walking trails around Coaker’s Walk to Bryants Park and Silver Cascade waterfalls. Kodai’s botanical wealth is trumped also by its fabulous wealth of orchids.
Kodai’s avifaunal diversity makes it a real paradise of plenty for birding buffs. Even amateurs can have loads of fun with a bird book and binocs along those pretty jungle trails.
A cycling tour up to Moir Point and along the Monnar Road brings its own thrills. However, do make it a point to check for forest fires alerts and get permission from the DSO to travel here during December to June.
Kodaikanal is a magnet for visitors when the elusive purple-hued Kurinji flower blooms only once every 12 years. The last flowering was reported in 2018; the next schedule for the blossoms is in 2030. In the Kurunji Andavar Temple area you may be able to spy the grand natural spectacle when they are in bloom next. The slope below Coaker's walk is another good spot. The peak blooming season is between August and October.
Excursions to the famous Annamalai Wildlife Sanctuary (Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary), one of the three wildlife sanctuaries in the Western Ghats along the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border, are well-recommended. The tribal communities residing in the area include the Kadars, Malai, Malasars, Eravalars, Puliyars and the Muthuvars.
Take a magical spin in these misty mountain retreats, rich in local lore, adventure and Nature’s untrammelled fantasies. Come away spiritually, physically and emotionally rejuvenated…you can always go back again for more.