Following in the steps of India’s erstwhile princely kingdoms we discover a fantastic legacy of gourmet experiences of the epic variety.
Patiala
From the gluttonous Maharaja Bhupinder Singh’s legendary ‘Patiala Peg’ (which is about 120ml of whisky!), a 24-egg omelette breakfast, 50 boneless quails as cocktail snacks and a choice of 30 versions of Murg Mussalam, a ‘taste of Punjab’ gets a whole new narrative. What adds more fuel to the litany of the idiosyncrasies of the legendary Bhupinder Singh was his preferred aphrodisiac— the cerebellum of male sparrow and shredded carrots mixed with honey!
Captain Amarinder Singh, scion of the erstwhile princely state of Patiala had in his possession an heirloom cookbook documenting 375 recipes from the Royal House of Patiala. The hand behind this precious culinary legacy, with recipes of which some could well date back over four centuries, was passionate foodie Maharaja Bhalinder Singh, no mean cook himself. The compilation features everything from dumpukht and meats, to kebabs and veggie dishes and desserts and confectionery items. The love of exotic rice dishes is amply reflected in the 40 recipes for pulaos alone!
Culled from the culinary influences of Afghanistan, Bahadur Shah’s Delhi durbar and Rampur from Uttar Pradesh it featured unique dishes like Dal Bhukpari, a moong dal and ginger offering; Shahi bharta, a strangely tomatoes-less, slow cooked, dum-style ghee infused brinjal featuring garlic, onions, green chillies cloves, and yoghurt; Khushk mahi Kebab (a minced fish kebab) and Mirch ka Halwa (a dessert created out of green bell peppers).
Punjabi cuisine, be it royal or the farmer community’s agrarian roots, will always find takers for its freshness, flavours and robustness. From Patiala to Amritsar or from Chandigarh to Jalandhar, be rest assured of an exceptional foodie experience.
Rajasthan
A unique introduction to Rajasthan comes in the form of its opium ceremony. This is a long-standing social tradition for community bonding amongst the people of western Rajasthan in the Thar Desert region at social gatherings, special events, and celebrations. Practised by all the castes, it is largely practiced by the Bishnoi and the Rajput communities in the Jodhpur area and by royals. The opium ceremony also marks the milestones in the passage of time on occasion like the birth of a child, a wedding or even in a period of mourning.
While opium is legally banned for consumption and production as a drug, in places like Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Barmer, Jalore, etc where they turn a blind eye to this deeply entrenched tradition from the villages upwards, it is still possible to attend an opium ceremony a tradition going for over a thousand years if not more.
Also known as Rian or Amal Sabha, the ceremony involves the dissolving of the opium pellets in water, then filtering it, grinding and mixing it with jaggery, sugar, saffron and milk in a wooden pot.
It’s like sharing a glass of beer and wine as a form of hospitality with the host. Guests are welcomed with a chickpea size pellet of opium put under the tongue till it melts. Another way to partake of the offering is to take a sip of it dissolved in water from the cupped hand of the host.
The royal family of Sailana is a branch of the Rathore house, cadets of the Royal House of Jodhpur. Raja Sir Dilip Singh of Sailana, was on a mission to collect traditional and fiercely guarded recipes translated from Sanskrit, Urdu and Persian. There were recipes that even went back to the times of Mughal emperor Shahjahan.
So consumed was he with this new found passion, Raja Sir Dilip Singh started practicing, refining and perfecting, the dishes under the tutelage of cooks from all over whom he summoned to his palace. Korma Asafjahi was a recipe given by the Nizam of Hyderabad in 1905. Shikampuri Kebab was a contribution by Maharajadhiraj Hari Singh of Kashmir. Another unusual recipe he offered was Dal Be Aab, a dal or lentil cooked without water. A unique innovation created by Raja Sir Dilip Singh was Mutton Dahi Bara, normally considered only as a vegetarian option. He also came up with a Gosht ka Halwa, made with minced meat! A culinary master Raja Sir Dilip Singh who passed on his legacy to his son the late Raja Sir Digivijay Singh, whose mantle lies on the shoulders of Raja Vikram Singh.
Originally made with meat from wild boar, deer or jungle fowl Rajasthan’s famous Jungli Maas is believed to be the unique creation of the Maharaja of Alwar. A recipe for a stranded Rajput shikari adapted from a tribal offering, it involved just five ingredients— meat, salt, whole red Mathania chillies, oil and water.
Another unique aspect of Rajasthan’s culinary diversions has been its homegrown proprietary heritage liqueurs. The princely states, both major and minor, used to have their own carefully preserved and fiercely guarded recipes. These had no synthetic colours or chemical additives whatsoever. The Mahansar family from the Shekhawati region, for example, has preserved its legacy brews for over 250 years.
Hyderabad
The khansamas, or chefs, manning the royal kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad, have long been famed for fabulous banquets. Their adept use of spices, and an amazing ability to draw out their distinctive flavours to meld into a harmonious symphony of delights. Unmissable treats to explore this culinary largesse are Kacche Gosht ki Biryani (served in the Falaknuma Palace when the 7th Nizam Mir Osman was resident), Patthar ka Gosht, Paneer Golkonda and Anokhi Kheer.
Rampur
Taar Ghost, Kaliya, Mutton Stew, the royal Rampur kitchen was legend for these melt-in-the mouth innovations. State banquets meant the cooks were working overtime to get together a minimum of 200 dishes in time for visiting heads of state.
Rampur was a princely state established by Rohilla Pathans in 1774. Its incredible historical records and gastronomic expressions (ascribed to its culinary practitioners) in the form of culinary manuscripts and cookbooks, have been preserved in the fantastic Rampur Raza Library. Remarked for its distinctive Pa??tun (think southern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan) food traditions and steered by the foodie persuasions of Delhi and Lucknow/Awadh being sandwiched between the two mighty culinary hubs, Rampur’s cuisine offers a compelling exploration of India’s multi-faceted culinary fusions.
Lucknow/ Mahmudabad
Guests travelling to Lucknow should look forward to some epic Awadhi offerings of the royal kitchen of Mahmudabad, which have long been the talk of gourmet circles. The Mahmudabad kitchens represent more than 400 years of history and are fabled for their banquets. From qormas to kebabs to its legend Noor Mahali Pulao, be prepared for some exceptional experiences from its many culinary treasures. Lab-e-Mashook, or the lips of a lover, is a fantastical souffle-like confection; Sahnak, another dessert, is believed to be inspired by the kitchens of Mughal Empress Nurjehan. With the palace, Qila Mahmudabad, now open to guests, one may enjoy a sit down slow-cooked meal that is not only prepared according to traditional techniques but also includes various recipes that stretch back to the time of the days of Nurjehan.
Rolling back the years to when India’s princely states were remarked for their lavish, untrammelled lifestyle pursuits, always topping the list of extravagances, you will discover, is the obsession with food and drinks. Luxury hotels and standalone restaurants across India, in a bid to keep some of these centuries’ old culinary legacies alive, are playing a pivotal role in collaborating with the erstwhile royals, by showcasing the legendary dishes on menus and through dedicated food festivals. Don’t miss an opportunity to dine and wine like a king!