Surrender yourself without reservation to the magic, mystique and hidden marvels of an exhilarating journey in India. Here are a few unmissable experiences to share memorable stories on a rainy day long after you return home to the bosom of your family…
Romancing the Rains in Mandu
Shift gear as you recalibrate your ideas of an Indian monsoon as you pull back the veil on an epic tale of lost love and tragic wars.
Forget those headlines about waterlogging and flooded out offices. Instead recapture the unfiltered romance of the monsoon at Mandu. Just a 2-hr drive away from the legendary foodie hub of Indore in Madhya Pradesh, Mandu with its architectural marvels, legends, folklore and ballads of ill-fated love, is totally worth a detour in the life-giving rains.
Steeped in atmospherics and tales of the ill-fated lovers, Baz Bahadur and Roopmati, Mandu reignites the romance of immortal love, partition and battles of yore. Once a part of the Delhi Sultanate, Mandu became the capital of Dilawar Khan, the then Governor of Malwa. On the death of Sultan Allaudin Khailji Dilawar Khan, broke away to set up the independent kingdom of Malwa. Eventually, this kingdom passed into the hands of Baz Bahadur, a connoisseur of the arts and music and a lyricist and musician in his own right.
While out on a hunt the young Baz Bahadur, who was Malwa’s last independent Sultan, was drawn to the melodious singing of Roopmati, a peasant girl, who entangled him with her lovely voice and beauty. Baz Bahadur could not persuade her to live as his consort at the palace; instead, so enraptured was he by Roopmati, he even agreed to her condition that he build her a home in plain sight of her beloved Narmada River before she agreed to marry him. The Rani Roopmati Pavilion, with its uninterrupted vistas of the Nimar Plains and the Narmada River, became their private hideaway from the world. With its superb acoustics it also served as a great place for their singing contests.
Breaking all societal and inter-faith norms, Baz Bahadur’s marriage, and bewildering fascination with Rani Roopmati —along with the growing neglect of the kingdom’s affairs, became the breeding ground for the Mughals to annex Malwa.
Baz Bahadur’s small army could not withstand the Mughal assault and soon he fled, a hunted fugitive, leaving behind his palace and a sorrowing Roopmati. Learning of Mughal Emperor Akbar’s general Adham Khan’s desire to meet her, Roopmati chose to die by her own hands by consuming poison rather than fall prey to the general’s lust— or so the legend goes. In 1570 Baz Bahadur was forced to surrender and come to terms with serving the Mughals till his own death.
In the ethereal mists of a Mandu monsoon, lose yourself in the haunting beauty of 15th century 2-tired palace, Jahaz Mahal (the Ship Palace). With the monsoon rains filling up the two surrounding lakes, the Kapur Talao and Munj Talao, to the brim the palace appears to be floating on water.
The sloping outer walls of Hindola Mahal give the impression that the whole palace is swaying in the breeze— inspiring its other name, ‘the Swinging Palace”; it’s a lovely reminder of how during the monsoon swings would be set up in the palace for the ladies to enjoy the cool weather. It appears that the palace served as a harem for the allegedly 15,000 women in Ghiyas ud-Din Khalji’s palatial residence.
Documenting the rise and fall of many empires between the 12th to the 16th centuries Mandu has over 3,000 structures spread across an area of 26 sq km of lush verdure. These architectural gemstones will steal your heart away with their enchanting atmospherics.
Another surprise in Mandu is your discovery of that small slice of Africa. There are several non-native baobab trees transported here from Africa. These unique trees look even more magnificent in Mandu’s rainy season. In the small market below the palace complex, vendors can, in season, be found hawking the tiny pods of "Mandu ki imli”, which kind of remind you of the sour-sweet taste of Indian imli or tamarind.
Other structures worthy of exploring amongst the scattering of the architectural detritus of the city ruins are : the Baz Bahadur Palace, where the ruler would conduct various public duties as well; the 14th century Hoshang Shah’s Tomb, the first marble structure in India and an inspiration for Shahjehan of the Taj Mahal legend; the adjoining Jami Masjid said to have been inspired by the great mosque at Damascus.; Ashrafi Mahal, said to have been visited by Emperor Jehangir and his pregnant wife Nur Jehan in the 17th century; the Victory Tower, originally a 7-storied structure commemorating Mahmud Shah Khalji’s victory over Rana Kumbha of Mewar; the Jal Mahal, the Water Palace at the far end of the Munja Talao, was a private retreat for romancing nobles!
Recapture those heady days at the nightly Sound and Light show held at the Hindola Mahal which reels you back to Mandu’s checkered history and lively legends.
You can spend the night at the lovely Jhira Bagh Palace, built by Maharaja Anand Rao Puar III, at Dhar 30 km from Mandu; the palace once served as a residence for important British officials, Viceroys, and Governor Generals of India.
Tryst with the Monsoon at Sajjangarh
Hordes of monsoon watchers arrive at the Sajjangarh Palace to watch the dramatic arrival of the monsoon clouds over Udaipur city and its surrounds in the Aravalli Hills. Appropriately named the Monsoon Palace, Sajjangarh served as a fantastic perch to celebrate the arrival of the rains after a scorching Rajasthani summer in the city of palace and lakes.
The spectacle of the mass of black clouds gathering momentum over the skies of Udaipur as they race towards the Aravali hills, is a sight you’ll never forget. In the city, people gather together to welcome the rains with savouries, sweets and joyful songs, while at Sajjangarh visitor’s camera’s go into overdrive to capture the spectacular drama playing out in the skyline.
The magic of the first raindrops kissing the thirsty soil has even been captured into a fabulous attar known as ‘mitti’, which replicates that undeniable scent of the marriage of rain and earth. Wander the Old Quarter to pick up vials from the local attar makers!
Nestled amidst the majestic Bansdara hills of the Aravalli range Sajjangarh Palace was the brainchild of Maharana Sajjan Singh who envisioned it as a 9-storied structure. Built in the 19th century as a monsoon retreat and a hunting lodge it was to serve as an excellent spot for an observatory for this keen astronomer. Unfortunately, because of his premature demise, he wasn’t able to see his grand vision come to fruition. It was left to his son, Maharana Fateh Singh, to finish the job. Watching the monsoon mists curl arounds the grand edifice with its high turrets and towers, domes, fountains, and jharokhas is a magical experience.
While the awesome pile-up of those low hanging dark clouds over Udaipur will get you scampering for the best perch, an equally unforgettable sight is a blazing sunset when the skies have been washed clean and the air turns cool and calm with the departure of the rain clouds to higher elevations.
Celebrating Rainy Days Culture and Food in Amritsar
The arrival of the rains in the ancient city of Amritsar unleashes high octane celebrations with music and dance in the most robust traditions of Punjab. Gidda and Bhangra are just some of the performances visitors get to watch as Amritsar city pulls out all the stops to offer a feast of cultural delights to be shared with family, friends— and the city at large. Marked for its traditionally farming community, Punjab heralds the monsoon with prayers and feasting and a celebration of life in all its fulsomeness.
Teeyan, what in Rajasthan is known as Teej, is the principal monsoon festival of Punjab; it is celebrated in the lunar month of sawan, also the holy month for the worship of Lord Shiva. The womenfolk in Amritsar really do a deep dive into it with all the traditional fervour, dressed to the nines in the traditional attire, complete with floral jewellery and mehndi- adorned hands. Gathering together a t predestined venues they sing folk songs to welcome the rains, sway to the rhythms of the beat of the dholkis, on gaily decorated swings or peengs and ready themselves for a hearty feast of monsoon dishes.
There’s a lovely saying which puts the spotlight on the city’s obsession with food: “…half the population of Amritsar is eating and the rest half are cooking”. In homes across town mothers, sisters and aunts crowd family kitchens to fill the air with the fragrance of gulgulay, sweetened deep-fried flour dough cakes swamped in the aromas and flavours of fennel and jaggery. Tuck into traditional monsoon and Teej favourites such as kheer and malpua.
If you get the opportunity to stay with a local family during the rainy season be prepared for other such monsoon treats (which keep infections and itinerant insects at bay) … think deep fried pooris, pakoras (savoury fritters), keema curry with hot parathas to-go (for picnics!), makki di roti (thanks to the plentiful supply of corn/maize in the mandis now), hot maze like jalebis teamed with a glass of pista-wallah milk. Wash it all down with delicious Amritsari chaas, a creamy yogurt beverage.
The food stalls of Amritsar are swarming with all kinds of yummy monsoon specials. Mark your day with a visit to the most crowded ones. They are the best!
Magic moments galore scatter along the path of the monsoon through the length and breadth of both rural and urban India. Come share the beauty of this legendary season like the local….
No Reservations…No Regrets…Keep that as your abiding motto throughout this amazing journey.