Brother Kochi has always been in the spotlight when it comes to travellers talking nineteen to the dozen about the many charms of Kochi. But we would err greatly in not directing their attention to the less explored cultural and spiritual landscapes of Thiruvananthapuram.
Let’s start at the very beginning. Even today there are many amongst us who think that Kochi is the state capital of Kerala. Not true. It is actually Thiruvananthapuram, formerly Trivandrum— the “City of the Sacred Serpent”. In fact, it served as the capital of the kingdom of Travancore from 1750 till 1958, when the state of Kerala was established. Spread over seven verdant hills it has largely served as springboard for tourists exploring the coastal splendour of the state. Fewer numbers of visitors stop by to enjoy a more immersive exploration of this port city which is home to India’s first deep-water trans-shipment port, the Vizhinjam International Seaport Thiruvananthapuram.
Till 1991 the official name of the city was Trivandrum. The Kerala government then bestowed upon it the name of Thiruvananthapuram thereafter. Thiruvananthapuram revels in its legend as the “City of the Sacred Serpent”, because its presiding deity, housed in the legendary Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, is Vishnu, who is also known as Anantha (one who reclines on the Serpent Anantha). 'Thiruvananthapuram' translates to the Land of Sree Anantha Padmanabhaswamy.
Did you know that there’s a prevailing belief that sailing ships of King Solomon, the fourth monarch of the Kingdom of Israel and Judah, found their way across the Arabian Sea to a port named Ophir, which we now know as Poovar, in Thiruvananthapuram district? This happened around 1036 BCE. King Solomon, as you know, from the Bible was the son of King David. Ophir/Poovar appeared to be a city of great wealth, being especially legend for its pure gold, sandalwood, ivory— even monkeys, and peacocks were procured from here in those times. In the Old Testament of the Hebrew Bible, Chronicles 2; 9:21 reveals that the king’s ships were gone for three years at a time, and when they came back, they brought gold, silver, ivory, apes and peacocks. According to research, in the light of India’s plentiful supply of all these commodities, it’s more than likely Ophir might be in or around India. Discovered in 1946 during excavations of Tell Qasile, a site in Tel Aviv in Israel, a pottery shard bearing an inscription, does give credence to the existence of that “pot of wealth”—Ophir.
Travellers who have an interest in India’s activities related to space may be surprised to learn that Thiruvananthapuram is where the country’s space program first kicked off, with the headquarters of Liquid Propulsion Systems Centre being located here. In fact, Thiruvananthapuram is also home to a bunch of some of India’s most important space-related research centres.
For a more intimate understanding of the rhythms of the city it’s a good idea to hire a cycle and wander around the district where you plan to stay. This gives you an instant connection with the vibe of the city as the locals go about their daily schedules, from school kids to office workers to housewives heading to the local markets for their purchases of fresh veggies and fruits, spices and sundry items needed for running a home. The wide streets lined with red- roofed homes are a quick reminder of the city’s colonial heritage. Lose yourself in the buzz and mayhem of a local bazaar in the early hours and come away with indelible memories of time well spent getting to know this port city. Autorickshaws are the most convenient means of whizzing around in the city. Its OK to haggle over rates as that itself puts you totally in ‘local’ mode
The star attraction here is not so much the remains of the old fort, but the legendary Sri Padmanabhaswamy Vishnu Temple. Pushing through the cluster of vendors and thickening crowd of devotees you can only marvel at the lively air created around the ancient temple, that’s the heart of the city’s religious mores. Freeing yourself from the blandishments of hawkers touting everything from fragrant garlands, to Kathakali Masks, head out for the massive tank where you’ll see devotes taking the ritual dip to purify themselves before paying their respects to the deity in the serene sanctum sanctorum. The beautiful shrine is one of the 108 Divya Desams, or sacred abodes of Vishnu in the Sri Vaishnava tradition.
A visit to the temple, which is said to date back to the 8th century, is a cultural treat as you cannot but be blown away by the amalgamation of the Kerala-Dravidian architecture, the gorgeous murals, sculptures, and the 18-foot-long serene idol of Vishnu in reclining mode on Sheshanag, the five-headed cosmic serpent. Lord Padmanabhaswamy is an avatar of Lord Vishnu and has a powerful hold on his devotees in the city. Vishnu as “Padmanabhaswamy” is the lord (swami) who has a lotus (padma) in his navel (nabha). The city of Thiruvananthapuram is the abode (puram) of the Lord (thiru) Ananta (“endless”).
The idol of the presiding deity is noted for being constructed from 12008 shaligrams—fossilized ammonites, which were brought from Nepal. It is believed these were found near the Gandhak River. The broad corridor lining the easter wing features 365 and one-quarter sculptured granite-stone pillars are covered with exquisite carvings.
Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma founded the princely state of Travancore over which he ruled from 1729 until his death in 1758. He was succeeded by Rama Varma. Marthanda Verma played a pivotal role in the renovation of the temple as you see it today; it was he who introduced the Bhadra Deepam, and Murajapam festivals at the shrine. Once every six years the Murajapam (continuous chanting of prayers) Festival is still conducted in the temple. In January 1750 the ruler dedicated the entire kingdom of Travancore to the deity in the temple. In a ritual observance called tiruppadidanam, Marthanda Verma symbolically gave his ceremonial sword to the deity Padmanabha (Vishnu). The deity thus became the official king and the king his servant. Travancore was one of the most powerful Indian princely states in the Raj era, with the kingdom becoming the 3rd-richest state among native states.
The Padmanabhapuram Palace, erstwhile seat of the Travancore Empire, is set within the Padmanabhapuram Fort at Padmanabhapuram Village at Thuckalay in the foothills, 64 km from Thiruvananthapuram. A huge tourist attraction, it’s considered one of the top ten palaces of the world. It is noted for its traditional Kerala-style architectural provenance. Built in 1601 it was famed for the unique use of the combo of egg whites, jaggery, lime, burnt coconuts, charcoal and river sand. Unmissable here also are the stunning carved mahogany ceilings, coloured mica windows and dance halls rendered in granite dance. It’s also got a network of secret underground passages.
The Sree Padmanabhaswamy Vishnu Temple is reputed for being one of the richest in the world. In 2011 the temple hit global news headlines when an exploration of its vaults revealed a wealth of jewels, precious metals, and other treasures pegged at a pricely sum of INR 1 trillion/ $22 billion. In 2020 the Kerala High Court’s ruling was overturned by the Indian Supreme Court and the management of the temple was returned to the royal family, but with additional support from an advisory board.
In November the procession of richly caparisoned elephants at the Padmanabhaswamy Temple during the city’s celebration of the Art Festival, is just spectacular.
You can stop by at the Kalarippayat martial arts gymnasium in the temple complex to watch the students practicing this famous Keralan martial art. You can also get the traditional Ayurvedic massage here.
Get permission to watch the Margi School of Kathakali dance drama and the Kutiyattam theatre conducting classes, in the Fort High School.
Margi is an organization dedicated to the revival of Kathakali and Kutiyattom, two classical art forms of Kerala. ‘Margi’, the Sanskrit word means “pursuit of aesthetic values which are universal and everlasting”. The organization provides the Gurukula system of training for these classical art forms and also holds regular performances. Highly stylized, oral and personal, in Gurukula, the ancient Indian concept of education where students reside with the Guru/ teacher. Margi also conducts performances abroad. In its history spanning over three decades Margi has always strived for the revival of the unique art forms of Kerala.
Parts of the Puttan Malika Palace (also known as the Kuthiramalika Palace) are open to the public so do immerse yourself in the showcase of heirlooms of the royal house of Travancore on display at the museum. The palace was built by Swathi Thirunal Rama Varma, ruler from the royal house of Travancore, in the 19th century. Kuthiramalika, meaning "Mansion of Horses," gets its name from the 122 wooden horses that embellish the exterior walls of the palace. Located south-east of the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, it hosts the open-air Carnatic Music Festival in October/November.
Painter Raja Ravi Verma’s name is inextricably woven into the artistic traditions of the House of Travancore. Born on 29 April, 1848 at Kilimanoor in Thiruvananthapuram district, he became a prolific painter. Ravi Varma’s paintings of the Royals, illustrious personalities and contemporary figures were widely sought-after and greatly admired. His visual images of gods and goddesses which attained celestial reverence have impacted almost all walks of life. Sri Chitra Art Gallery, near the Napier Museum in Thiruvananthapuram, was established in 1935; it features a collection of traditional and contemporary Indian artworks, including famous pieces by Raja Ravi Varma.
A side trip to the Tourist Village at Aakkulam, just 10km from town, offers some charming diversions. Cruising down to Veli Tourist Village in a traditional Kerala houseboat is a lot of fun as is boating on the Velli Lagoon. The latest addition to the Veli Tourist Village is what is believed to be India's first solar powered miniature train. The train ride covers a total distance of 2.5km. Modelled after the vintage steam locomotive it even has artificial smoke that chugs out to give it an authentic appearance. The station house of this train too has been modelled in a traditional style and the rail system features every aspect of a real fully equipped rail system including a ticket office, station and tunnel. With three bogies and ample space, the train can accommodate around 45 people.
If you are looking for an uncrowded beach experience head for Veli Beach, for some peaceful downtime. The floating restaurant in the vicinity is also a popular distraction.
Just 16km away from town is the ever-popular Kovalam Beach. The three adjacent crescent shaped beaches and the massive promontory which has shielded the bay from the turbulence of the sea have made this a favourite haunt for sun worshippers and sea bathers alike.
Aranmula, located 130km away from the city, plays host to the Parthasarthy Temple Festival in the month of September. Soak up the atmospherics here of the traditional festivities that include a procession of boats and boat racing. Don’t forget to pick up a local souvenir, the famous Aramula Kanati, a handmade mirror made of a special copper tin alloy. These mirrors are backed by a storied past though they come in different models. Mixing certain herbs with molten metal to give it its reflective component makes this mirror quite unique. Did you know that the biggest custom-made Aranmula metal mirror was made for the king of Bahrain? It cost around 12 Lakhs and took almost 3 months to complete it.
The hill station of Ponmundi lies quite close to Thiruvananthapurm. Follow the verdent trekking trails and enjoy the sylvan charms of forested hill slopes and natural streams sparkling in the dappled sunlight. Wildlife abounds in Papara, en route to Ponmundi and you may get some sightings of elephant, leopard or deer around the reservoir where there are boating facilities. Stop by at the Koyikkal Palace en route to Ponmudi and Courttalam. The Folklore Museum dating back to 1992, has on display traditional musical instruments, household utensils, occupational implements and models of folk arts.
In the port city set aside time to hit the shops for some lovely retail therapy; great souvenirs and are available for all budgets. Check out the stores on MG. Rd and the Gram Sree village crafts centre and the Chala Bazar area for sandalwood artifacts- incense sticks, boxes, various deities beautifully carved, textiles, silk saris, statues of bronze. If you’re a coffee and nuts freak this is paradise for you. There are plenty of Kathakali masks, coir handicrafts and the famous Aranmula (metal mirror) which is indigenous to the city.