Rajasthan’s varied topography provides travellers experiences of an exceptionally rich kaleidoscopic mosaic of flora and fauna and avian life in their natural habitat. One can only marvel at how the wilderness spaces of hot desert lands, thorny scrubland and deep ravines in hilly enclaves serve as a stunning foil against the state’s wetlands and lush forestlands.
Keoladeo Ghana National Park
Having soaked yourself in the many splendoured charms of the Taj Mahal in Agra at sunset you should take the 1-hr drive out to the city of Bharatpur, your launchpad for a thrilling birding adventure early next morning.
The Keoladeo Ghana National Park, A UNESCO World Heritage Site, is readying itself for the host of migratories from Central Asia and Europe who spend their winter holidays with us. More familiar as the Bharat Bird Sanctuary Keoladeo Ghana National Park, is north India’s premier avifaunal adventure destination and falls in the path of the famous tourist circuit of India’s Golden Triangle — Delhi- Agra -Jaipur.
An excellent place to enjoy traditional Rajasthani hospitality is the beautiful heritage property, the Laxmi Vilas Palace, just a five-minute drive from the bird sanctuary. This splendid palace has played host to such dignitaries as the Duke of Edinburgh, Shah of Iran, the King of Nepal and many more.
It’s interesting to note that the Kingdom of Bharatpur, carved out by the legendary Jat warriors, Badan Singh and Suraj Mal, became such a power to be reckoned that it was the only one to have fought successfully against the British. In the unsuccessful siege of the Lohagarh fort, the British forces were forced to retreat having suffered huge heavy casualties, and witnessed their leader Lord Lake die in the conflict. The Jats even had the gall to attack and capture for a while the Red Fort in Delhi, the ultimate seat of power.
‘Small is beautiful’ is wonderfully illustrated by this gorgeous wetland which spills over with both resident species and annual migratories in the high season. Spread across just 29 sq km the woodland and waters, hedges and fields of this tiny sanctuary becomes a cacophonic world bustling with energy and industrious endeavour as the avian visitors from colder climes noisily break the tranquil scene while settling down for a long winter stay in this avifaunal nursery and haven.
From up-close visuals of jewel-hued kingfishers to shy Black-Rumped Flameback, from graceful Black-Winged Stilts 6-footer Dalmatian Pelicans, your eco-friendly morning rickshaw ride in the park is a treat for sore eyes. Keep your eyes peeled as you might chance upon some of the raucous and colourful avian courting which goes into fever pitch in the sanctuary. Watch as colonies of herons, black-headed ibis, darters, egrets, open bills and painted storks busily go about setting up nurseries in the trees and by the mud banks. For viewings of local bird species August to November is truly rewarding; for migratory sightings spend time here between October and February.
Unmissable on the tour by the water bodies you might catch sunning crocodiles, monitor lizards and turtles, who ignore visitors, as they go about getting a sun tan.
Nahargarh Biological Park
From the bustling environs of the historic Pink City of Jaipur wend your way to the serene splendour of Nahargarh Biological Park for a unique birding experience. Spread over 720 hectares the Park is a wonderful amalgamation of three eco-systems—the Aravalli Range Ecosystem, a Desert Ecosystem, and a Wetland Ecosystem. The topographical diversity of its setting offers visitors a thrilling understanding of Rajasthan’s astonishing wildlife heritage. Home to over 285 avifaunal species, the park also attracts hundreds of migratory water birds in the winter months.
Amongst the new sightings recorded recently are those of the Eurasian Collared-Dove, White-breasted Waterhen, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, Black Redstart, White-browed Fantail, White-capped Bunting and many more. October to March is the best time to explore the park following well marked routes.
The park was established with the aim to conserve the region’s diverse wildlife and provide a safe haven for endangered species. It has played an important role as an educational hub, promoting awareness about wildlife conservation among visitors, especially children and students.
Khichan Conservation Reserve
The legendary 'Blue City' and Rajasthan's second largest city, Jodhpur falls on the ancient caravan route of the Thar desert. While its charms are endless and discoveries of things unique and novel are a big enticement to stay on, one must make the effort to stray deep into its desert expanses to engage with its wider world.
About 150 km away, the village of Khichan unfolds a unique narrative of conservation and local pride that has resonated deeply with visitors from all over the world as the ‘Demoiselle Crane village’. It is India’s first conservation reserve for Demoiselle cranes, locally known as ‘Kurjan’, who migrate here from eastern and central Asia in the winter months here between September–February. It all began in the 1970s when Ratan Lal Maloo from the Jain community in the village started the custom of feeding these leggy migratory visitors, with their pale grey bodies, red-eyes, long black neck, white plumes and a wingspan of over a metre, in his backyard. Protecting and feeding animals and birds are customary religious and moral practices for the community. Over time with the numbers of these graceful birds increasing (from about a dozen or so to thousands of them now), a special area, known as pakshi chugga ghar, was dedicated for feeding them, and also protecting them from attacks by the local dogs. Apart from this feeding area the birds can be found clustered around the arid expanses of the sand dunes, waterbodies, shrub lands and salt pans.
Other avian species that can be spotted in the surrounds are the laggar falcon, the distinctive changeable hawk-eagle and migratory birds like the pied avocet and the ruddy shelduck.
While visiting remote and ecologically fragile areas such as these, or even the more familiar ones like Bharatpur, it is even more important that one’s sensitivity as a responsible traveller allies with the importance of preserving cultural integrity, flora and fauna, as showcased by these three wonderful experiences in Rajasthan’s leading avifaunal destinations.