The rainy season in Nepal, which runs from June to September end, may not be the best time to travel as a visitor. But, if you are looking for a truly immersive cultural experience of this tiny Himalayan kingdom come and do, as the locals and die-hard Nepal fans do.
Pivot away from the charms of Kathmandu and head out for Patan or Lalitpur, also known as the ‘City of Fine Arts’.
Lazing around in Lalitpur in the rainy season is lovely as the popular tourist haunts have fewer visitors and more locals — and the picturesque city still has plenty lots of things to keep you engaged.
In the historic UNESCO-acclaimed Durbar square area, you can spend undisturbed quality time inspecting the excellent signposts of the Malla period range of arts and craftsmanship. Their distinctive influences in the line-up of temples and palaces are reflected in the signature architectural components such as the pagoda-style, stupa shapes and vaulting shikharas; the impress of care in precise detailing richly evident in the intricate designs which embellish walls, windows, doorways, pillar and cornices of the buildings.
Even the great Indian Emperor Ashoka’s four stupas, set up by him in the four corners of the city on his pilgrimage to Nepal in 250 BCE, provide fresh insights into the historical and spiritual connection between India and Nepal from way back.
If you get caught in the rain, it’s an excellent opportunity to slip into the doorway with the gilded arch, one of the two entry points to the 3-storied Patan Museum, located opposite the Krishna Mandir in the courtyard of Keshav Narayan Chowk. The building was originally the royal residence of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla in the 17th century. You are in for a priceless treat as you wander around exploring some of the rare treasures of Asian art housed in the complex. The museum features a marvellous collection of Hindu and Buddhist religious art and artefacts.
Partially damaged in the earthquake of 2015, the museum has been beautifully restored and is a lovely place to spend two or three hours acquainting yourself with some of Nepal’s most glorious creative works. Unmissable exhibits include the Malla throne and bathtub surrounded by miniature statues, the brilliant cast bronzes and repoussé work in copper and wood carving. The signage and descriptions explaining their artistic, spiritual, and historical importance in Nepalese culture are very useful. You might find the stairways a bit steep, but the views of the buildings and action around the courtyard below are worth the climb up to the second floor.
There’s nothing like indulging your sweet tooth on a rainy day. So instead of coffee at the museum café seek a local street favourite–the hot syrupy jeri or Indian style jalebi, which looks like a pretzel. The Nepalese enjoy it wrapped in a swari, which is a thin fried flatbread.
To explore the living traditions of this cultural richness beyond the confines of the museum, you can also enjoy a tour of the artisan workshops around town. Patan is famous from ancient times for its cast bronzes, gilt copper repousse work and a wide range of traditional crafts. Statue making and exquisite metal craft workmanship are well-preserved ancestral traditions which are flourishing here to this day. If you plan to be in town for a few days, you might like to enrol for lessons in cooking or craft making of your choice at the Backstreet Academy.
Find your way to the privately run Yala Mandala set in a 4-storied old Newari Mansion stocked with a wonderful display of paintings, drawings, sculptures and pottery; carpets, and furnishings and clothing and jewellery — scouted out from the locally crafted works of Nepalese artists and artisans. Mingle with other visitors in the courtyard and gardens where much of the action emanates also from the lovely café here. Founded by Pravin Chitrakar this urban artisanal set-up also serves as an arts residency and handicrafts workshop.
You should also visit the Simrik Atelier established by master artist Lok Chitrakar–renowned as “the Maker and Saver of Paubha.” Run as a school, studio, and art gallery for Paubha, one of Nepal’s richest Newari painting traditions, Simrik should definitely be on your Patan wish list. Pauba paintings offer visual representations of Hindu and Buddhist philosophies, as practiced in the Vajrayana school of thought. Simrik Atelier’s aim is to make certain that the beauty and knowledge which is intrinsic to this unique Newar traditional art form is passed on to future generations.
Spend rewarding moments browsing around the Jawalakhel Handicraft Center, a big hit for its beautiful Tibetan carpets and rugs. It has ties with the Tibetan Refugee Camp across the road. JHC offers a precious opportunity to witness firsthand the incredible skills of the women weaving these intricate handwoven works of art.
Pop by at the wonderfully atmospheric site of Mahaboudha and marvel at the Buddha images engraved on every brick of the temple. Be at peace with yourself and the world as you light a butter lamp and lose yourself in the forest of blue plates wrapped around the temple site.
The Krishna temple, built by King Siddhi Narasingha Malla in the 17th century is a marvel of delights with its 21 shikharas. Images of the 10 avatars of Lord Vishnu, of whom Krishna is one, can be found scattered all over the temple site. The temple becomes a powerhouse of energetic religious fervour during the festivities celebrating Lord Krishna’s birth (Janam Ashtami) in August. Non-Hindus are not permitted inside the temple, but you can’t miss the atmospheric vibes that infuse the streets and temple complex.
With its rich concentration of artisanal and cultural wealth, Patan is the perfect monsoon escape in Nepal to travel, learn and return home rejuvenated and exhilarated by everything you’ve seen, done and enjoyed.